From Field to Table: Chianti Classico and La Petraia

Heading south in in our avuncular Fiat Punto we are in search of La Petraia. Set among the mists in the Chianti Mountains the luxury agriturismo La Petraia is both spectacularly beautiful and just a little hard to find. After ups and downs and twists and turns in and through towering clouds we finally arrived at the property. Our previous destination Panzano in Chianti is a more down to earth area dotted with small towns and agriculture. At La Petraia we feel far away and much more elevated. Occasional estates, vineyards and forest are now the dominant surroundings. La Petraia is owned by Susan McKenna Grant and Michael Grant who purchased the property in the fall of 2000. The site had been abandoned as a working farm 50 years earlier. Susan and Michael brought it back to productivity with plantings of grapes,olives, vegetables and raising of heritage animals; all quality ingredients for Susan's work in the kitchen. Susan, a successful software entrepreneur turned accomplished chef is author of the award winning cookbook ''Piano Piano Pieno: Authentic Food from a Tuscan Farm''. As part of La Petraia's agriturismo programs Susan offers several culinary experiences. The 2009 program included a visit by noted author Michael Pollan as part of the ''La Petraia Sessions''.

After being greeted by Susan and Michael we were shown our rooms and took a few minutes to rest before a tour of the property. It was quickly apparent that at La Petraia the level of attention and quality regarding the guest experience is of the very highest level. Sometimes when traveling you come upon a place that is so special and unique you can imagine scuttling the rest of your tour and staying put. La Petraia is that kind of place. The accommodations, setting and experience are truly phenomenal, especially for a couple but since none of us had significant others along we could only think another day, another time, another visit.

A tour of the site revealed several rare heritage Cinta Senese pigs rooting in the duff, happily snorting and sniffing. As it turned out one of the pigs was experiencing it's last moments as our visit coincided with the scheduled slaughtering of a pig. The gathered farm professionals soon dispatched our pig with a well placed rifle shot and the transformation from field to table had begun.

We then scaled the tallest hill on the property to walk among the ruins of an ancient Etruscan town. With an amazing 360 degree view from our high perch, one direction revealed a sliver of the farm's vineyards and beyond, over several sets of hills the majestic tower in Siena. In the other direction the Arno River valley was seen surrounded by snow covered mountains.

Jim considered the possibilities of a late summer meal on a Tuscan mountain top.

La Petraia

Susan McKenna Grant and Michael Grant of La Petraia are from Canada

and notice Jim is wearing a t-shirt from UBC farm in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. UBC farm is the site of several Outstanding in the Field dinners.

Near the Etruscan ruins

Attractive fowl

Susan and Dave witness the slaughtering of a Cinta Senese pig

The Most Famous Butcher in the World

Our Euro scout continued onward to the warmer climes of Tuscany and the town of Panzano in Chiati where we met up with Dario Cecchini and his wife Kim at Antica Macelleria Cecchini. Dario's work was chronicled in Bill Buford's excellent book ''Heat'', and a memorable episode of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. After a tour and a chat with Dario's wife Kim, who is originally from the San Francisco Bay Area, Dario appeared, greeting us with warmth, enthusiasm and a larger than larger than life charisma. We heard a detailed off the cuff diatribe on all that was wrong in the world of food as he busily chopped, wrapped, mixed and sliced, skills that evinced all in food and restaurants that is true and right. Right in his world and soon in ours as it was time for lunch. Dario operates three restaurants very close to his butcher shop: Solo Ciccia, MacDario and Officina Del Bistecca. MacDario (described here) is the lunch spot, a Tuscan riff on McDonalds and fast food. We sat down for a delicious not so typical burger washed down with a ''military'' Grappa, not bad. Young culinary interns Chris and Nicholas, hailing from Canada and France, came out of the kitchen joining us for lunch and soon we were animatedly comparing notes on culinary travels. After our afternoon lunch Kim sent us off to the nearby vineyard and winery of Fontodi where Silvano showed us around. Acclaimed Fontodi is a certified organic operation located in the ''Conca Di'Oro'' a natural amphitheater descending from just below Panzano in Chianti. Besides the vineyard and winery operation we also visited a part of the property where Fontodi raises a small herd of the famed and very large Chianina beef. After our eventful day we ascended to the town of Lamole and Casa al Prato a Tuscan mountainside hideaway owned by Dario's sister Marina Cecchini. Besides Marina's beautiful accommodations she also operates a small gift shop called bonheur located a few doors down from Mario's shop.

Antica Macelleria Cecchini

Kim and Dave at the butcher shop Antica Macelleria Cecchini

Exploring

Dario expostulates while offering porcetta samples

Lunch Time at Mac Dario

Mac Dario burger with Pinzimonio on the side

Chianina at Fontodi Vineyard

the road to Lamole

Jim and Dario

Denmark

Despite the extreme cold, an outstanding visit to Copenhagen and the Denmark countryside was one of our most anticipated destinations. Copenhagen is bike city and after seeing grandmothers biking around in the late night in bitter cold snowy conditions we really couldn't complain about the weather. We had an appointment in a few days to meet with Rene Redzepi and Peter Kreiner of renowned Noma Restaurant but first it was time for dinner at Kodbyens Fiskebar in Copenhagen. Owned by Anders Selmer, former wine director at Noma, Fiskebar is a beautiful restaurant located in a redone classic old meat market. Delicious and unfamiliar Nordic seafood (to us) are featured. Anders enthusiasm for Denmark products soon led to a long list of potential farms and seacoast sites to visit.

Noma

Copenhagen's Noma restaurant is part of the New Nordic Cuisine Movement. The Nordic Cuisine Manifesto can be seen here. Noma's culinary philosophy fits right in with the ideals and goals of Outstanding in the field. Chef Rene Redzepi and Noma believes nordic restaurants should have the signature of place. Jim, Katy and Dave had a warm and enthusiastic meeting with Chef Rene Redzepi and Director Peter Kriener of Noma. A collaboration for late August was agreed upon and several possible sites were mentioned. Peter generously made a few phone calls setting us up with farm visits for the next day. The farmers and foragers central role in our summer event in Denmark was agreed to be the most important aspect of a collaboration. With the meeting out of the way we went for a walk in anticipation of dinner.

We arrived at Noma later in the evening to experience the tasting menu. What an amazing and delicious dining experience! Katy and Jim both thought it was the best meal they had ever had. The menu was composed solely of mid winter Nordic ingredients-quite a feat. For service knowledgeable and warm members of the kitchen staff brought out and described each dish. Sated, we headed out into the Copenhagen night thinking of Denmark farms and the potential dining sites we would visit the next day. Check here for an excellent description of the Noma experience.

First stop was the biodynamic dairy farm of Niels Stokholm and his herd of 60 red Danish cow. We were welcomed into the farmhouse by Niels and enjoyed hot tea Danish breads, farm butter, preserves and fresh cheeses. We heard Niels' story of his work as a bridge engineer traveling the world until one day he decided he really wanted to be a farmer, found some land and made a life of it. He gave us a detailed explanation of his farming practices and then it was time to take a look around. First stop was the cow barn where Niels convinced Katy to ride the bull. As Niels explained, modern farming practices ignore the welfare of the individual animal giving them the ‘cold shoulder’and just like any relationship with that kind of treatment things tend to not go well in the long run. And as Katy learned, bulls treated well are gentle enough to ride!

After our walk around the farm Niels said he had something special to show us. We drove a few miles down the road to see an amazing ancient Druid earthwork believed to be constructed around 3000 BC. Niels and Jim sang together in harmony which when resonating correctly caused the an eerie humming noise that shook the ground, something many other visitors surely practiced in the same space thousands of years ago.

Our next visit was Camilla Plum's fuglebjerggaard farm. Camilla greeted us in the kitchen and quickly offered us some delicious danish black bread. Besides baking bread, herding cows, raising fruits and vegetables organically and growing plants for seeds and growing and milling their own wheat that they grow on the farm and having there own farm market... they grow hops for their own beer!! Camilla has several cookbooks in print many of which were on display in the small market. We walked around the farm that evening in bitter cold. Probably much more comfortable when we return in the late summer.

After leaving the farm we decided to go visit the nearby Louisiana Art Museum so Jim could meet with a curator. Among other things we spied this group of thin Giocomettis.

The Sportsman

It was a short train ride to snowy Whitstable, England and then a short cab ride to nearby Seasalter for a visit with chef Stephen Harris of The Sportsman restaurant. Steven has received international accolades for his cuisine which is quite an accomplishment for a chef that started his career rather late at 36 years old. Steven makes his own salt and makes his own butter and both were the best Jim and Dave have ever tasted. Monkshill Farm is the source of sheep and pigs for the restaurant and is close by. The sea, the source of Stephen's house made salt, is a short walk in the other direction. We hoped to take a look at the farm but with the days being so short at this time of year it was not possible. After several delicious courses brought out by Stephen's lovely girlfriend Emma we thanked our hosts and agreed it would be great to try and meet up in the spring when Stephen and Emma will be visiting California.

After another night in London we were on our way to Trealy Farm in Wales. Snow was forecast and there was concern that the roads might be icy and dangerous. A few scenic detours and near mishaps later we arrived at the farm. We met James, Ruth and Graham and enjoyed some tea in the farmhouse before a full tour of the site. Numerous sheep dotted the property set on a sunny hillside with a great view of the surroundings. We heard the tale of the hill behind the farm being the site of an important battle, the last victory of the Welsh over the English. Thankfully the two parties get along for the most part now. Ruth brought us up the hillside to view the animals and James gave us a look at the charcuterie operation.

James and Ruth of Trealy Farm with Dave