The past couple of weeks we’ve been hard at work compiling a comprehensive history of Outstanding in the Field.
Be sure to look at our map, if you haven’t already done so, as well as our updated participants page, which includes a great list of the chefs, farmers, producers and artisans that we’ve worked with over the years.
Also in the past nine years, Outstanding in the Field has donated a portion of the dinner proceeds to the following organizations, a list we've just assembled for the first time:
Berkshire Grown
Colorado Organic Producers Association
Community Alliance with Family Farmers (CAFF)
Chez Panisse Foundation
First Slice
Green City Market
Just Food
La Plaza Cultural Community Garden
Marin Organic
Northeast Organic Farming Association (NOFA)
Open Space Alliance of Santa Cruz
Parkway Partners
Peconic Land Trust
Slow Food L.A.
Southern Sustainable Agriculture Working Group
Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture
Sustainable Nantucket
University of British Columbia Farm
Wattles Farm
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Monday, October 15, 2007
A Butcher's Dinner
With the previous weekend off, we were fresh and ready for this week’s dinner. Our site was only a short jog down the road from Outstanding in the Field headquarters in Santa Cruz.
Everett Family Farm, had hosted an Outstanding Dinner this time last year and Rich and Laura had invited us to their farm again. Jim and Leah visited the site a few days beforehand and Jim was excited to see a fallow row about 14 feet by 170 feet, perfectly wide and perfectly long enough for the table. The row was lined with a beautiful variety of greens and flowers and several rows over were two horse-trailers-converted-chicken-coops, which definitely added to the atmosphere. It was going to be a gorgeous setting with the table.
On Saturday morning we headed over to Everett Family Farm, giving ourselves extra time to work on cleaning off the chairs. After being in the wet field out at County Line a couple of weeks ago we knew they would need a little attention.
Despite the rain earlier in the week, getting everyone excited, the day had turned out beautiful: cloudless skies and a comfortably warm temperature. The farm had been washed clean by the rain so even the chicken houses looked bright and fresh in the field.
It’s hard to believe, but this was going to be our last table set up until the foraging dinner in December. After 15 dinners (including a couple of private events) in 18 weeks, there is going to be some withdrawl.
After scrubbing down all the chairs (thanks to Cindy and Wrenna, our new staff!) and letting the field dry out a bit more we started spreading out straw bales into the vacant row. In less than an hour, the table was set and the field transformed into our restaurant without walls.
Andrea Gentl and Marin Hyers, photographers from Conde Nast Traveler, jumped into the cherrypicker and lifted themselves high into the sky for an aerial shot of the table. They were at the dinner trying for a cover shot for the March issue of the magazine, which will include a “Farm to Table” feature article. The cherrypicker proved to be a great novelty later on in the dinner for others who wanted to see an overhead view of the scene – almost like a carnival ride! Here's a shot by Jim's photographer friend Patrick Trefz to give you a taste:
Up at the welcome area, guests had begun to arrive. Christine Slatter from Hunter Hill Vineyard and Winery poured her 2004 Estate Merlot from the Santa Cruz Mountains. Hunter Hill is literally over the hill from Everett Farm, just off Glen Haven Road in Soquel. Chef Justin Severino of Severino Community Butchers had prepared platters upon platters of crostini that were set out on the mesh-top greenhouse tables: bresaola with tea-soaked prunes, ciccioli with pickled cucumber and beef salami with apricot mostarda.
Justin is familiar with Outstanding in the Field dinners, as this is his third – second at Everett Farm. Justin and his wife Hilary operate Severino’s Community Butcher, which sources pig, beef and rabbit from local farmers. They sell the sausages, pates and cuts of cured meats at farmers markets in Felton, Santa Cruz and Campbell. Unfortunately for Santa Cruz, Justin will be relocating back to his former home of Pennsylvania in a few weeks time to begin anew in Pittsburgh. We are very fortunate to have him join us for this Outstanding dinner in Santa Cruz and look forward to the possibility of visiting him next year in the Northeast.
After appetizers and wine, Rich and Laura Everett, along with farmers Teresa Kurtak and Michael Irving (UCSC CASFS graduates), led everyone on a tour of the farm: from the market stand to the fields, to the persimmon and apple orchards. Afterwards, guests meandered back towards the table and collected their plates displayed on hay bales. We poured Hunter Hill’s “Double Barrel” (a Roussane and Viognier blend) and then presented Justin’s savory watermelon soup with proscuitto, charred tomatoes and goat cheese. See his full menu here. It was an educational evening, with everyone walking away having learned at least two new Spanish/Italian terms for different pork preparations. Justin created an amazing menu, sourcing almost every vegetable/fruit ingredient from Everett Farm. The meat came from Devil’s Gulch Ranch, the fish from Hans and Heidi at H&H Fresh Fish and the bread from Big Sur Bakery. Dessert was prepared by Marg Clemens. The guests enjoyed 19 beautiful apple pies which were made with the Newtown Pippin apples from the Everett’s orchard.
After dessert was served, Justin and his kitchen crew came out to the table to say goodnight and the rowdy crowd gave a high-spirited ovation. With the comfortable weather, guests lingered into the night.
Everett Family Farm, had hosted an Outstanding Dinner this time last year and Rich and Laura had invited us to their farm again. Jim and Leah visited the site a few days beforehand and Jim was excited to see a fallow row about 14 feet by 170 feet, perfectly wide and perfectly long enough for the table. The row was lined with a beautiful variety of greens and flowers and several rows over were two horse-trailers-converted-chicken-coops, which definitely added to the atmosphere. It was going to be a gorgeous setting with the table.
On Saturday morning we headed over to Everett Family Farm, giving ourselves extra time to work on cleaning off the chairs. After being in the wet field out at County Line a couple of weeks ago we knew they would need a little attention.
Despite the rain earlier in the week, getting everyone excited, the day had turned out beautiful: cloudless skies and a comfortably warm temperature. The farm had been washed clean by the rain so even the chicken houses looked bright and fresh in the field.
It’s hard to believe, but this was going to be our last table set up until the foraging dinner in December. After 15 dinners (including a couple of private events) in 18 weeks, there is going to be some withdrawl.
After scrubbing down all the chairs (thanks to Cindy and Wrenna, our new staff!) and letting the field dry out a bit more we started spreading out straw bales into the vacant row. In less than an hour, the table was set and the field transformed into our restaurant without walls.
Andrea Gentl and Marin Hyers, photographers from Conde Nast Traveler, jumped into the cherrypicker and lifted themselves high into the sky for an aerial shot of the table. They were at the dinner trying for a cover shot for the March issue of the magazine, which will include a “Farm to Table” feature article. The cherrypicker proved to be a great novelty later on in the dinner for others who wanted to see an overhead view of the scene – almost like a carnival ride! Here's a shot by Jim's photographer friend Patrick Trefz to give you a taste:
Up at the welcome area, guests had begun to arrive. Christine Slatter from Hunter Hill Vineyard and Winery poured her 2004 Estate Merlot from the Santa Cruz Mountains. Hunter Hill is literally over the hill from Everett Farm, just off Glen Haven Road in Soquel. Chef Justin Severino of Severino Community Butchers had prepared platters upon platters of crostini that were set out on the mesh-top greenhouse tables: bresaola with tea-soaked prunes, ciccioli with pickled cucumber and beef salami with apricot mostarda.
Justin is familiar with Outstanding in the Field dinners, as this is his third – second at Everett Farm. Justin and his wife Hilary operate Severino’s Community Butcher, which sources pig, beef and rabbit from local farmers. They sell the sausages, pates and cuts of cured meats at farmers markets in Felton, Santa Cruz and Campbell. Unfortunately for Santa Cruz, Justin will be relocating back to his former home of Pennsylvania in a few weeks time to begin anew in Pittsburgh. We are very fortunate to have him join us for this Outstanding dinner in Santa Cruz and look forward to the possibility of visiting him next year in the Northeast.
After appetizers and wine, Rich and Laura Everett, along with farmers Teresa Kurtak and Michael Irving (UCSC CASFS graduates), led everyone on a tour of the farm: from the market stand to the fields, to the persimmon and apple orchards. Afterwards, guests meandered back towards the table and collected their plates displayed on hay bales. We poured Hunter Hill’s “Double Barrel” (a Roussane and Viognier blend) and then presented Justin’s savory watermelon soup with proscuitto, charred tomatoes and goat cheese. See his full menu here. It was an educational evening, with everyone walking away having learned at least two new Spanish/Italian terms for different pork preparations. Justin created an amazing menu, sourcing almost every vegetable/fruit ingredient from Everett Farm. The meat came from Devil’s Gulch Ranch, the fish from Hans and Heidi at H&H Fresh Fish and the bread from Big Sur Bakery. Dessert was prepared by Marg Clemens. The guests enjoyed 19 beautiful apple pies which were made with the Newtown Pippin apples from the Everett’s orchard.
After dessert was served, Justin and his kitchen crew came out to the table to say goodnight and the rowdy crowd gave a high-spirited ovation. With the comfortable weather, guests lingered into the night.
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Dandelions and Radicchio
This is our second year at County Line Harvest. Last year we dined at a site just down the road; this year because of the low rainfall we moved to the County Line Harvest field at Red Hill Ranch.
After the two and a half hour drive north to Sonoma County, we arrived with jeep and trailer in tow to find Veronica already set up in the field folding napkins. Jim promptly began his ritual walk through the rows in the field to find the most aesthetically pleasing spot for the table: naturally this would be the one furthest away from where our equipment. Luckily County Line Harvest owner/farmer David Retsky had just returned from market and was there to help us out by loading up his quad cycle and trailer to haul out the tables, glassware, chairs, utensils and plates and then finally the massive stove and grill.
It was great to have our familiar California staff: Johnny, Emily and Aubrey. Also a couple of new staff who found Outstanding in the Field from reading the GQ Magazine and Common Ground articles, were joining us in the field. Chef Duskie Estes and her Zazu crew soon arrived and efficiently began setting up the kitchen and welcome area. Set up ran smoothly and quickly.
As guests arrived, they were welcomed with a beautiful arrangement featuring Soyoung’s 5 favorite cheeses from Andante Dairy, County Line’s radishes with lavendar salt and sweet butter and a Brut Rose from Iron Horse Vineyards. Everyone mingled by the old red dairy barn with Soyoung, accompanied by her husband Jamie, happily answering questions about her nearby Petaluma-based cheesemaking operation.
Eventually the guests, guided by David, made the journey over to the table, tucked far into the deep green dandelion rows. Occasionally, in the excitement of the moment, the farm tour breaks off and rushes the table; David was left behind chatting with a few, more attentive guests.
Andy Peay, of Peay Vineyards, had contacted Outstanding in the Field a few years ago interested in working with us. This year Duskie Estes, when discussing winemaker options for the dinner, mentioned Andy Peay and the match was made.
After the Peay Vineyards Chardonnay was poured at the table, Duskie’s first course of soup and salad went out to the table. It featured onions and lettuce from County Line as well as bread from Della Fattoria and Soyoung’s tome cheese. Here is a complete version of the menu.
Also joining the us at the table that evening were the folks from McEvoy Ranch Olive Oil along with Andy Peay and winemaker Vanessa Wong from Peay Vineyards; throughout the meal they wandered along the table chatting with the guests.
With sunset, the diners enjoyed the family platters of roasted roots and CK Lamb salumi with shelling bean gratin. Once the entrees were finished and we had begun to clear the table, the candles were set out on the table illuminating contented guests. Darkness had arrived and the temperature had dropped drastically as the wind picked up. Jim went around offering guests colorful Mexican blankets that we had picked up at a truck stop in Oklahoma on our way back across the country. It was the first dinner we had ever offered blankets to those at the table and they were very well received! Our 20 blankets couldn’t quite stretch over the shoulders of 140 guests, but most of the guests had dressed warmly for the occasion.
By the time dessert was served - a phenomenal goat cheesecake with bruleed figs - many of the guests were more than ready to escape the elements: the novelty of dining in the field had been blown away with the wind. There was a quick rush to collect plates and then follow the trail of lanterns back out of the field towards the cars. A few people enjoyed the thrill of it all and huddled around the glowing grill to warm their hands and linger, expressing their gratitude to Duskie and her kitchen. Once all of the guests had filtered off and the kitchen had packed and left, our crew was left in the silence of the middle of the field under the stars. We warmed ourselves by the fire for a while until the wind died down. With the wind chill gone, clean up was slightly less daunting: we handed out the headlamps and began collecting wine glasses from the long vacant table.
After the two and a half hour drive north to Sonoma County, we arrived with jeep and trailer in tow to find Veronica already set up in the field folding napkins. Jim promptly began his ritual walk through the rows in the field to find the most aesthetically pleasing spot for the table: naturally this would be the one furthest away from where our equipment. Luckily County Line Harvest owner/farmer David Retsky had just returned from market and was there to help us out by loading up his quad cycle and trailer to haul out the tables, glassware, chairs, utensils and plates and then finally the massive stove and grill.
It was great to have our familiar California staff: Johnny, Emily and Aubrey. Also a couple of new staff who found Outstanding in the Field from reading the GQ Magazine and Common Ground articles, were joining us in the field. Chef Duskie Estes and her Zazu crew soon arrived and efficiently began setting up the kitchen and welcome area. Set up ran smoothly and quickly.
As guests arrived, they were welcomed with a beautiful arrangement featuring Soyoung’s 5 favorite cheeses from Andante Dairy, County Line’s radishes with lavendar salt and sweet butter and a Brut Rose from Iron Horse Vineyards. Everyone mingled by the old red dairy barn with Soyoung, accompanied by her husband Jamie, happily answering questions about her nearby Petaluma-based cheesemaking operation.
Eventually the guests, guided by David, made the journey over to the table, tucked far into the deep green dandelion rows. Occasionally, in the excitement of the moment, the farm tour breaks off and rushes the table; David was left behind chatting with a few, more attentive guests.
Andy Peay, of Peay Vineyards, had contacted Outstanding in the Field a few years ago interested in working with us. This year Duskie Estes, when discussing winemaker options for the dinner, mentioned Andy Peay and the match was made.
After the Peay Vineyards Chardonnay was poured at the table, Duskie’s first course of soup and salad went out to the table. It featured onions and lettuce from County Line as well as bread from Della Fattoria and Soyoung’s tome cheese. Here is a complete version of the menu.
Also joining the us at the table that evening were the folks from McEvoy Ranch Olive Oil along with Andy Peay and winemaker Vanessa Wong from Peay Vineyards; throughout the meal they wandered along the table chatting with the guests.
With sunset, the diners enjoyed the family platters of roasted roots and CK Lamb salumi with shelling bean gratin. Once the entrees were finished and we had begun to clear the table, the candles were set out on the table illuminating contented guests. Darkness had arrived and the temperature had dropped drastically as the wind picked up. Jim went around offering guests colorful Mexican blankets that we had picked up at a truck stop in Oklahoma on our way back across the country. It was the first dinner we had ever offered blankets to those at the table and they were very well received! Our 20 blankets couldn’t quite stretch over the shoulders of 140 guests, but most of the guests had dressed warmly for the occasion.
By the time dessert was served - a phenomenal goat cheesecake with bruleed figs - many of the guests were more than ready to escape the elements: the novelty of dining in the field had been blown away with the wind. There was a quick rush to collect plates and then follow the trail of lanterns back out of the field towards the cars. A few people enjoyed the thrill of it all and huddled around the glowing grill to warm their hands and linger, expressing their gratitude to Duskie and her kitchen. Once all of the guests had filtered off and the kitchen had packed and left, our crew was left in the silence of the middle of the field under the stars. We warmed ourselves by the fire for a while until the wind died down. With the wind chill gone, clean up was slightly less daunting: we handed out the headlamps and began collecting wine glasses from the long vacant table.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Outstanding Dinner Site History
Below is a map marking every site that Outstanding in the Field has set its table. Since 1999, we have presented 73 dinners from Alaska to Nantucket Island to San Diego and many places in between. Click on each point on the map to view links to the dinners' participants. To view a bigger version, follow the Outstanding Dinner Site History Map link to the left.
View Larger Map
View Larger Map
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Dining with the Stars
We have been excited about this dinner for months. Jim drove down to L.A. at the end of July to scout out the site and returned to Santa Cruz very enthusiastic. As was discussed in our NYC entry, there is a uniqueness about community garden dinners and Wattles Farm has a lot to share.
Toby Leaman, president of the board of directors and longtime member of the garden, has been our Wattles liason and met us to unlock the gates the morning of the dinner. She is a very sweet lady with tons of passion towards the garden, its history and its hundreds of members.
What is now Wattles Farm was once an avocado grove/fruit orchard for the nearby Wattles Mansion. In 1975 it became Wattles Farm, to begin growing into what it is today, making it one of L.A.’s oldest community gardens. It is 4.2 acres in size, and right off Hollywood Blvd tucked away on Curson Ave, less than 1 mile from the Walk of Fame.
Spacial organization of the dinner is a bit more of a challenge in these community gardens, more so than a 4.2 acre field of course. After some contemplation, Jim opted for a V table, running it off along two walking paths, lined by fruit trees and garden plots.
Unexpectedly, a few guests arrived early and Toby ushered them on a private tour around the garden sharing her stories and knowledge of the plants and trees.
Allen Quinton & his wife of Antelope Valley Winery set up under the trees to pour their Muscat Canelli to the arriving guests. We are excited to finally work with Antelope Valley Winery owned by Cecil McLester. Cecil's son Andrew is a good friend of Jim’s and is the wine consultant for Outstanding in the Field. A few members of the garden were also there at the welcome area to tour small groups of guests through the rows of avocado trees and garden plots bursting with herbs, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuces, chard, beans and berries.
A number of garden members were present to lead small groups of guests around the garden. Some gardener guides were more elaborate with their tours than others, but eventually everyone arrived back at the greeting area for Jim and Katy’s welcome. Plates in hand, the guests then cozied into their seats at the table to be begin their meal with a beautiful salad of radicchio, burrata, figs and mineolas from the garden kitchen of Kris Morningstar and Blue Velvet Restaurant. See Kris’ full menu here.
Guests enjoyed the dinner at a leisurely pace. Kris’ uni chowder was delicious, the uni (sea urchin roe) being a new experience for many of the diners. The platter receiving the greatest reaction at the table was the yellow wax peppers stuffed with lamb’s tongue served over shelling bean salad. The dish was paired with Antelope Valley's 2005 Tempranillo; Antelope Valley's first bottling of the Tempranillo grape. Dessert was a zucchini bread with zucchini mousse– one friend of Outstanding in the Field mentioned afterwards that it was the best thing she had ever eaten, ever.
The evening was topped off by a brilliant sighting of a shooting star. Jim was addressing the table when he suddenly noticed many of the guests pointing up into the sky behind him with their mouths hanging open. Of course by the time he had spun around, the spectacle was over. Very memorable for the guests.
Toby Leaman, president of the board of directors and longtime member of the garden, has been our Wattles liason and met us to unlock the gates the morning of the dinner. She is a very sweet lady with tons of passion towards the garden, its history and its hundreds of members.
What is now Wattles Farm was once an avocado grove/fruit orchard for the nearby Wattles Mansion. In 1975 it became Wattles Farm, to begin growing into what it is today, making it one of L.A.’s oldest community gardens. It is 4.2 acres in size, and right off Hollywood Blvd tucked away on Curson Ave, less than 1 mile from the Walk of Fame.
Spacial organization of the dinner is a bit more of a challenge in these community gardens, more so than a 4.2 acre field of course. After some contemplation, Jim opted for a V table, running it off along two walking paths, lined by fruit trees and garden plots.
Unexpectedly, a few guests arrived early and Toby ushered them on a private tour around the garden sharing her stories and knowledge of the plants and trees.
Allen Quinton & his wife of Antelope Valley Winery set up under the trees to pour their Muscat Canelli to the arriving guests. We are excited to finally work with Antelope Valley Winery owned by Cecil McLester. Cecil's son Andrew is a good friend of Jim’s and is the wine consultant for Outstanding in the Field. A few members of the garden were also there at the welcome area to tour small groups of guests through the rows of avocado trees and garden plots bursting with herbs, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuces, chard, beans and berries.
A number of garden members were present to lead small groups of guests around the garden. Some gardener guides were more elaborate with their tours than others, but eventually everyone arrived back at the greeting area for Jim and Katy’s welcome. Plates in hand, the guests then cozied into their seats at the table to be begin their meal with a beautiful salad of radicchio, burrata, figs and mineolas from the garden kitchen of Kris Morningstar and Blue Velvet Restaurant. See Kris’ full menu here.
Guests enjoyed the dinner at a leisurely pace. Kris’ uni chowder was delicious, the uni (sea urchin roe) being a new experience for many of the diners. The platter receiving the greatest reaction at the table was the yellow wax peppers stuffed with lamb’s tongue served over shelling bean salad. The dish was paired with Antelope Valley's 2005 Tempranillo; Antelope Valley's first bottling of the Tempranillo grape. Dessert was a zucchini bread with zucchini mousse– one friend of Outstanding in the Field mentioned afterwards that it was the best thing she had ever eaten, ever.
The evening was topped off by a brilliant sighting of a shooting star. Jim was addressing the table when he suddenly noticed many of the guests pointing up into the sky behind him with their mouths hanging open. Of course by the time he had spun around, the spectacle was over. Very memorable for the guests.
Monday, September 17, 2007
Dining in the Vines
We arrived at the vineyard about noon to begin setting up for the dinner. As we are used to setting up dinners for 130 to 140 people these days, we forgot that setting up for a 64 person dinner takes much less time. Our help arrived soon afterwards: Kelly and Elizabeth from Lexington, Kentucky, who were interested in Outstanding in the Field. When staffing for our dinners across the country, we network through friends, the restaurants/wineries or post ads on Craigslist. Today, we were fortunate for these two girls to reply to the craigslist ad and for them to make the hour plus drive up to join us for the afternoon/evening.
Chuck and Mary host concert picnics at the vineyard throughout the summer so, needless to say, they are used to having guests. They have the equipment for it too: a 16 foot, homemade grill that hitches up to the tractor to be moved. Chuck towed it out to the field where we had chosen the table site between the rows of Norton, Chardonel and Seyval grapes for Kathy to use later on. With more than enough time to spare for set up, the entire OitF team was happy to join the guests up at the barn and first wine/appetizer area to mingle and enjoy the welcome speeches. Here Kathy had some eggplant and tomato jam bruschetta and Judy Schad from Capriole Goat Farm shared a number of different cheeses.
Once all of the guests had arrived, Jim and Katy welcomed the crowd, then passed the attention over to Chuck. He spoke of how there have been eight generations of Smith farmers in Henry County and how Mary and himself had purchased their farm over 25 years ago. Originally, they grew tobacco and milked cows. Since then, they have grown organic vegetables and raised free range chickens, turkeys and beef cattle. Now, they have replaced tobacco with the vineyard and continue to raise sheep, cattle while making wine.
Digesting that information, guests wandered down to the table and meandered through the vines for a short while before seating at the table to feast, Wendell Berry’s sheep grazing closeby between the vines.
Click here to see a copy of Kathy’s beautifully crafted menu.
Guests enjoyed Earth Promises Farm chicken from Sandy Corlett, who may win the prize for telling the most entertaining story at the table this season. She shared with us an experience of waking up during the night to hear a rain storm and it pouring down on her new, young birds, not yet aware of their shelter. In the storm, she went out to the coop to find them all fast asleep and getting soaked. Shoo-ing proved futile, as the sleepy birds would only stand up, walk a couple of feet and plop back down again, narcoleptically. Sandy acted this out, as well as her next best option, which was to individually pick up and move each chicken under shelter. She performed her scooping up the chicken and jogging a few feet to put the oblivious birds down under shelter while reminding herself “three dollars a dozen, three dollars a dozen”. Hours later, she had moved over three hundred chickens and completed just in time to go into the house, get dressed and take the kids to school.
Ivor Chodkowski was well-featured on the menu, including his butternut squash, garlic and potatoes. Lamb came from Wendy Price of Shadowland Farm who was unfortunately unable to join us at the table. Overall, Kathy created an almost exclusively local meal, aside from the apples in the crisp, which were from Michigan, but not without reason: a harsh freeze in April had wiped out Kentucky’s entire apple crop. Even still, the crisp was delicious and nicely complimented Judy’s goat cheese ice cream. Upon tasting, guests were asking where they could buy the ice cream, which is unavailable commercially. Someone suggested Kathy start packing and distributing it, potentially a nice retirement plan? Hope to see Capriole Farm Goat Cheese Ice Cream in stores in the future…
Once again, by the end of the evening guests were leaving satiated and happy, having enjoyed a meal with their new friends at the table, including their local purveyors. They heard the stories of the vegetable farmer, the goat and chicken farmers and the winemakers and dined right next to the source – in the field.
Chuck and Mary host concert picnics at the vineyard throughout the summer so, needless to say, they are used to having guests. They have the equipment for it too: a 16 foot, homemade grill that hitches up to the tractor to be moved. Chuck towed it out to the field where we had chosen the table site between the rows of Norton, Chardonel and Seyval grapes for Kathy to use later on. With more than enough time to spare for set up, the entire OitF team was happy to join the guests up at the barn and first wine/appetizer area to mingle and enjoy the welcome speeches. Here Kathy had some eggplant and tomato jam bruschetta and Judy Schad from Capriole Goat Farm shared a number of different cheeses.
Once all of the guests had arrived, Jim and Katy welcomed the crowd, then passed the attention over to Chuck. He spoke of how there have been eight generations of Smith farmers in Henry County and how Mary and himself had purchased their farm over 25 years ago. Originally, they grew tobacco and milked cows. Since then, they have grown organic vegetables and raised free range chickens, turkeys and beef cattle. Now, they have replaced tobacco with the vineyard and continue to raise sheep, cattle while making wine.
Digesting that information, guests wandered down to the table and meandered through the vines for a short while before seating at the table to feast, Wendell Berry’s sheep grazing closeby between the vines.
Click here to see a copy of Kathy’s beautifully crafted menu.
Guests enjoyed Earth Promises Farm chicken from Sandy Corlett, who may win the prize for telling the most entertaining story at the table this season. She shared with us an experience of waking up during the night to hear a rain storm and it pouring down on her new, young birds, not yet aware of their shelter. In the storm, she went out to the coop to find them all fast asleep and getting soaked. Shoo-ing proved futile, as the sleepy birds would only stand up, walk a couple of feet and plop back down again, narcoleptically. Sandy acted this out, as well as her next best option, which was to individually pick up and move each chicken under shelter. She performed her scooping up the chicken and jogging a few feet to put the oblivious birds down under shelter while reminding herself “three dollars a dozen, three dollars a dozen”. Hours later, she had moved over three hundred chickens and completed just in time to go into the house, get dressed and take the kids to school.
Ivor Chodkowski was well-featured on the menu, including his butternut squash, garlic and potatoes. Lamb came from Wendy Price of Shadowland Farm who was unfortunately unable to join us at the table. Overall, Kathy created an almost exclusively local meal, aside from the apples in the crisp, which were from Michigan, but not without reason: a harsh freeze in April had wiped out Kentucky’s entire apple crop. Even still, the crisp was delicious and nicely complimented Judy’s goat cheese ice cream. Upon tasting, guests were asking where they could buy the ice cream, which is unavailable commercially. Someone suggested Kathy start packing and distributing it, potentially a nice retirement plan? Hope to see Capriole Farm Goat Cheese Ice Cream in stores in the future…
Once again, by the end of the evening guests were leaving satiated and happy, having enjoyed a meal with their new friends at the table, including their local purveyors. They heard the stories of the vegetable farmer, the goat and chicken farmers and the winemakers and dined right next to the source – in the field.
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Welcome to Kentucky
After our long drive into Louisville we were anxious to get to a coffeeshop and connected to the internet. Satisfied at after spending a few hours at a café on Fourth Street downtown, we made our way to Bardstown Road to find some dinner. The street was bustling on this Friday night, with many of the restaurants having long waits. We did manage to find a patio spot at Avalon so we could enjoy the warm evening. Leah enjoyed a local brew while Jim tasted a few different bourbons including the local Maker’s Mark and Knob Creek. Avalon had a nice outdoor atmosphere and great service but the food was just okay, nothing too exciting.
The next morning we drove out to New Castle to check out the dinner site. Smith-Berry Vineyard and Winery is owned by Chuck Smith and Mary Berry-Smith, who is the daughter of farmer-philosopher Wendell Berry. Smith-Berry Vineyard used to farm tobacco before they moved on to grapes, all the while continuing to raise cattle and grow organic vegetables.
For the past few months in Kentucky there has been a drought going on, resulting in a brown, California-like landscape: fortunately, we have just missed the 110 degree weather by a couple of weeks. Regardless, Chuck and Mary share our enthusiasm for the dinner tomorrow and are looking forward to having everyone out in the vineyard.
After visiting Smith-Berry in the morning we happened upon a little gem called Winks Diner that served fried bologna sandwiches, great onion rings and banana puddin (which they were unfortunately out of that day). The fried bologna sandwiches reminded Jim of cooking as a boy with his brothers – the sandwich was just the way he liked it, with mayo, tomato, bologna and white bread. While driving back into town, we also noticed a number of bologna billboards, boasting how “Fosters Bologna makes Smiles” with happy, satisfied children holding sandwiches very similar to those from Winks. We were definitely not in California yet…
Tonight we were surprised to see Bardstown Road much less of a scene than the night before and more like a ghost town (apparently due to the Saturday night football game). We visited Lilly’s to introduce ourselves to Kathy Cary and enjoy her restaurant, a pioneer in Louisville for using local and organic ingredients. We’re looking forward to having her in the field with us tomorrow!
The next morning we drove out to New Castle to check out the dinner site. Smith-Berry Vineyard and Winery is owned by Chuck Smith and Mary Berry-Smith, who is the daughter of farmer-philosopher Wendell Berry. Smith-Berry Vineyard used to farm tobacco before they moved on to grapes, all the while continuing to raise cattle and grow organic vegetables.
For the past few months in Kentucky there has been a drought going on, resulting in a brown, California-like landscape: fortunately, we have just missed the 110 degree weather by a couple of weeks. Regardless, Chuck and Mary share our enthusiasm for the dinner tomorrow and are looking forward to having everyone out in the vineyard.
After visiting Smith-Berry in the morning we happened upon a little gem called Winks Diner that served fried bologna sandwiches, great onion rings and banana puddin (which they were unfortunately out of that day). The fried bologna sandwiches reminded Jim of cooking as a boy with his brothers – the sandwich was just the way he liked it, with mayo, tomato, bologna and white bread. While driving back into town, we also noticed a number of bologna billboards, boasting how “Fosters Bologna makes Smiles” with happy, satisfied children holding sandwiches very similar to those from Winks. We were definitely not in California yet…
Tonight we were surprised to see Bardstown Road much less of a scene than the night before and more like a ghost town (apparently due to the Saturday night football game). We visited Lilly’s to introduce ourselves to Kathy Cary and enjoy her restaurant, a pioneer in Louisville for using local and organic ingredients. We’re looking forward to having her in the field with us tomorrow!
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