Dinner with David

If someone had told us last summer while we were driving through Texas - four of us in the Jeep and trailer munching on truck stop snacks - that we would be flying to Italy in January to organize a dinner for a hot NYC men's wear designer, I'm not sure we would have believed it. But we wouldn't have been adverse to the idea.

And so there we were, spending the first week and a half in Tuscany, visiting a winemaker, a butcher, a baker, olive tree farmer and a sheep farmer who would all be providing for Adam Kimmel's honorary dinner at Pitti Immagine Uomo 73 in Florence. And what a grand time it was: imagine the fun in hearing about (through broken Italian/English and translation from our dear photographer/translator friend Andrea Wyner) these amazingly well-treated pigs of the Chini brothers with the best view in Tuscany. Or tasting sheep cheese, wine, sausage and head cheese in the hills of Rufina. Fantastic. With these ingredients Jim and the team at Convivium designed a beautiful menu that featured our new friends of the region:

Vincenzo, Cesare and Lorenzo Chini of Macelleria Chini (Vincenzo top left)
Enrico and Vania Di Marino of Licciolo (Enrico top center)
Carlo and Sabrina Giovanni of Flor di Pane (Sabrina top right)
Pamela Sheldon Johns of Poggio Estrusco (bottom photo)
Fabio and Francangelo Eleuteri of Fattoria di Tignano

Curator Neville Wakefield along with curator Francesco Bonami had invited Jim to Florence to organize the event as an Outstanding in the Field type dinner, but also as an Art Dinner. This is a new (and new favorite) concept for Jim, which materialized into a beautiful sand drawing-like table in amongst the statues at Gypsoteque of the Instituto D'Arte Porta Romana. A truly phenomenal view from the second story windows:

Thank you so much to Adam, Lapo, Anna, Francesca, Beatrice, Neville, Aimee and everyone who helped in this magical evening - it was a great pleasure!

Mountain Feast

After a short break in the season (some time for us all to catch up with the rest of the world and not have to think about the dinner next weekend) it's amazing how easy it is to get back on the horse and into the swing of purveyors, chefs, tables and chairs.  

We look forward to this event every year since the first in 2004: the Foraging Feast.  Hosting us this year is Jered Lawson and Nancy Vail of a great project called Pie Ranch.  The "Rural Center for Urban Renewal" is located about 40 minutes north of Santa Cruz, right off of Hwy 1 in San Mateo County and they devote themselves to educating people (especially youth) on farming, community and local food systems.  Their beautiful old barn will house our table and dinner guests for the potentially chilly early December event.

Setting up their kitchen on the Ranch is Chef Sean Baker, who reigns from Jim's old stomping grounds of Gabriella Cafe.  Gabriella is actually where the idea of Outstanding in the Field was born, when Jim would bring the purveyors of his menus into the restaurant and feature them at "Farmer Dinners".  This eventually grew into having the diners in the farmers' fields and Outstanding in the Field as we know it today.  Chef Sean has actually joined us before for an Outstanding dinner, as part of Eric Tucker's Millenium crew at Mariquita Farm in 2002.  This year, he is the one leading the pack, bringing his acclaimed local fare from the cottage-like Gabriella, out to the barn.

As guests arrived to Pie Ranch at about two o'clock, they were directed up the hill to where the fields and forest meet and Denis Hoey of Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard awaited with his Grenache Rose and Tempranillo.  The weather was comfortable for a coastal December day, however the wind had joined us in full force and made us happy that we had the barn as shelter for later on.

And now to introduce to you the star or our foraging feast: David Chambers, a master forager of the Santa Cruz Mountains and traditional "host" of our December events.  This photo from last year's dinner (thank you to Jerry Chacon) has David showing off a deadly Death cap mushroom.

On a scouting mission a few days prior to the dinner, David and Jim had discussed and decided on the extent of our foraging trek.  However David, with his excess of boyish enthusiasm, abandoned these plans all together and pushed further:  heading up a steep hill with our dinner crowd trailing behind, huffing and puffing.  The reward at the summit was a spectacular view of the forest, the Pacific and a far offshore island.  David shared stories about the difficulty of finding mushrooms this year due to lack of rain in the area.  He did relate the finding of a 6 lb. boletus edulis mushroom (a.k.a. porcini) 100 miles north, where the rains had been plentiful.  After the talk the group moved closer to the edge and with the beautiful view, everyone fell silent.  Jim broke this with a "Let's eat!" and everyone made their way down the hill through the Eucalyptus and Monterey pine, back to the barn.  If there ever was one, this was the dinner where everyone had definitely worked up an appetite by the time they reached the table.

Now filled with the tables and chairs and nicely warmed with a few area heaters, the barn was transformed into a cozy dining room.  Jered and Nancy had the space decorated with brightly colored decorative squash and strings of dried corn cobs lined the rafters.

Once everyone was settled in, platters of Sean's grilled squid and Scott's Point mussels with wild mint and chili made their way to the tables, greatly satisfying our hungry hikers.  The other family-style courses included a lamb's tongue, pig's ear mushroom and endive salad and then sable fish with fennel, chanterelles, hedgehogs and stinging nettles from nearby Bonny Doon Road.  Finally, Sean and his crew individually plated an heirloom bean ragout in a winter squash ring with seared queen boletus on top, for a beautiful presentation.  See the full menu here.  The atmosphere inside the barn was warm and homey, with guests enjoying their meal and chatting with the neighboring diners at the long tables, creating a pleasant buzz in the barn. 

After finishing up with a delicious "winter luxury" pie (winter luxury is suitably the name of the pumpkin variety), the guests made their way back to their vehicles by lantern through forest and field.

History in the making

The past couple of weeks we’ve been hard at work compiling a comprehensive history of Outstanding in the Field.
Be sure to look at our map, if you haven’t already done so, as well as our updated participants page, which includes a great list of the chefs, farmers, producers and artisans that we’ve worked with over the years.
Also in the past nine years, Outstanding in the Field has donated a portion of the dinner proceeds to the following organizations, a list we've just assembled for the first time:

Berkshire Grown

Colorado Organic Producers Association

Community Alliance with Family Farmers (CAFF)

Chez Panisse Foundation

First Slice

Green City Market

Just Food

La Plaza Cultural Community Garden

Marin Organic

Northeast Organic Farming Association (NOFA)

Open Space Alliance of Santa Cruz

Parkway Partners

Peconic Land Trust

Slow Food L.A.

Southern Sustainable Agriculture Working Group

Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture

Sustainable Nantucket

University of British Columbia Farm

Wattles Farm

A Butcher's Dinner

With the previous weekend off, we were fresh and ready for this week’s dinner. Our site was only a short jog down the road from Outstanding in the Field headquarters in Santa Cruz.



Everett Family Farm, had hosted an Outstanding Dinner this time last year and Rich and Laura had invited us to their farm again. Jim and Leah visited the site a few days beforehand and Jim was excited to see a fallow row about 14 feet by 170 feet, perfectly wide and perfectly long enough for the table. The row was lined with a beautiful variety of greens and flowers and several rows over were two horse-trailers-converted-chicken-coops, which definitely added to the atmosphere. It was going to be a gorgeous setting with the table.

On Saturday morning we headed over to Everett Family Farm, giving ourselves extra time to work on cleaning off the chairs. After being in the wet field out at County Line a couple of weeks ago we knew they would need a little attention.

Despite the rain earlier in the week, getting everyone excited, the day had turned out beautiful: cloudless skies and a comfortably warm temperature. The farm had been washed clean by the rain so even the chicken houses looked bright and fresh in the field.

It’s hard to believe, but this was going to be our last table set up until the foraging dinner in December. After 15 dinners (including a couple of private events) in 18 weeks, there is going to be some withdrawl.

After scrubbing down all the chairs (thanks to Cindy and Wrenna, our new staff!) and letting the field dry out a bit more we started spreading out straw bales into the vacant row. In less than an hour, the table was set and the field transformed into our restaurant without walls.

Andrea Gentl and Marin Hyers, photographers from Conde Nast Traveler, jumped into the cherrypicker and lifted themselves high into the sky for an aerial shot of the table. They were at the dinner trying for a cover shot for the March issue of the magazine, which will include a “Farm to Table” feature article. The cherrypicker proved to be a great novelty later on in the dinner for others who wanted to see an overhead view of the scene – almost like a carnival ride!  Here's a shot by Jim's photographer friend Patrick Trefz to give you a taste:



Up at the welcome area, guests had begun to arrive. Christine Slatter from Hunter Hill Vineyard and Winery poured her 2004 Estate Merlot from the Santa Cruz Mountains. Hunter Hill is literally over the hill from Everett Farm, just off Glen Haven Road in Soquel. Chef Justin Severino of Severino Community Butchers had prepared platters upon platters of crostini that were set out on the mesh-top greenhouse tables: bresaola with tea-soaked prunes, ciccioli with pickled cucumber and beef salami with apricot mostarda.

Justin is familiar with Outstanding in the Field dinners, as this is his third – second at Everett Farm. Justin and his wife Hilary operate Severino’s Community Butcher, which sources pig, beef and rabbit from local farmers. They sell the sausages, pates and cuts of cured meats at farmers markets in Felton, Santa Cruz and Campbell. Unfortunately for Santa Cruz, Justin will be relocating back to his former home of Pennsylvania in a few weeks time to begin anew in Pittsburgh. We are very fortunate to have him join us for this Outstanding dinner in Santa Cruz and look forward to the possibility of visiting him next year in the Northeast.

After appetizers and wine, Rich and Laura Everett, along with farmers Teresa Kurtak and Michael Irving (UCSC CASFS graduates), led everyone on a tour of the farm: from the market stand to the fields, to the persimmon and apple orchards. Afterwards, guests meandered back towards the table and collected their plates displayed on hay bales. We poured Hunter Hill’s “Double Barrel” (a Roussane and Viognier blend) and then presented Justin’s savory watermelon soup with proscuitto, charred tomatoes and goat cheese. See his full menu here. It was an educational evening, with everyone walking away having learned at least two new Spanish/Italian terms for different pork preparations. Justin created an amazing menu, sourcing almost every vegetable/fruit ingredient from Everett Farm. The meat came from Devil’s Gulch Ranch, the fish from Hans and Heidi at H&H Fresh Fish and the bread from Big Sur Bakery. Dessert was prepared by Marg Clemens. The guests enjoyed 19 beautiful apple pies which were made with the Newtown Pippin apples from the Everett’s orchard.
After dessert was served, Justin and his kitchen crew came out to the table to say goodnight and the rowdy crowd gave a high-spirited ovation. With the comfortable weather, guests lingered into the night.

Dandelions and Radicchio

This is our second year at County Line Harvest. Last year we dined at a site just down the road; this year because of the low rainfall we moved to the County Line Harvest field at Red Hill Ranch.

After the two and a half hour drive north to Sonoma County, we arrived with jeep and trailer in tow to find Veronica already set up in the field folding napkins. Jim promptly began his ritual walk through the rows in the field to find the most aesthetically pleasing spot for the table: naturally this would be the one furthest away from where our equipment. Luckily County Line Harvest owner/farmer David Retsky had just returned from market and was there to help us out by loading up his quad cycle and trailer to haul out the tables, glassware, chairs, utensils and plates and then finally the massive stove and grill.



It was great to have our familiar California staff: Johnny, Emily and Aubrey. Also a couple of new staff who found Outstanding in the Field from reading the GQ Magazine and Common Ground articles, were joining us in the field. Chef Duskie Estes and her Zazu crew soon arrived and efficiently began setting up the kitchen and welcome area. Set up ran smoothly and quickly.

As guests arrived, they were welcomed with a beautiful arrangement featuring Soyoung’s 5 favorite cheeses from Andante Dairy, County Line’s radishes with lavendar salt and sweet butter and a Brut Rose from Iron Horse Vineyards. Everyone mingled by the old red dairy barn with Soyoung, accompanied by her husband Jamie, happily answering questions about her nearby Petaluma-based cheesemaking operation.

Eventually the guests, guided by David, made the journey over to the table, tucked far into the deep green dandelion rows. Occasionally, in the excitement of the moment, the farm tour breaks off and rushes the table; David was left behind chatting with a few, more attentive guests.

Andy Peay, of Peay Vineyards, had contacted Outstanding in the Field a few years ago interested in working with us. This year Duskie Estes, when discussing winemaker options for the dinner, mentioned Andy Peay and the match was made.
After the Peay Vineyards Chardonnay was poured at the table, Duskie’s first course of soup and salad went out to the table. It featured onions and lettuce from County Line as well as bread from Della Fattoria and Soyoung’s tome cheese. Here is a complete version of the menu.



Also joining the us at the table that evening were the folks from McEvoy Ranch Olive Oil along with Andy Peay and winemaker Vanessa Wong from Peay Vineyards; throughout the meal they wandered along the table chatting with the guests.



With sunset, the diners enjoyed the family platters of roasted roots and CK Lamb salumi with shelling bean gratin. Once the entrees were finished and we had begun to clear the table, the candles were set out on the table illuminating contented guests. Darkness had arrived and the temperature had dropped drastically as the wind picked up. Jim went around offering guests colorful Mexican blankets that we had picked up at a truck stop in Oklahoma on our way back across the country. It was the first dinner we had ever offered blankets to those at the table and they were very well received! Our 20 blankets couldn’t quite stretch over the shoulders of 140 guests, but most of the guests had dressed warmly for the occasion.

By the time dessert was served - a phenomenal goat cheesecake with bruleed figs - many of the guests were more than ready to escape the elements: the novelty of dining in the field had been blown away with the wind. There was a quick rush to collect plates and then follow the trail of lanterns back out of the field towards the cars. A few people enjoyed the thrill of it all and huddled around the glowing grill to warm their hands and linger, expressing their gratitude to Duskie and her kitchen. Once all of the guests had filtered off and the kitchen had packed and left, our crew was left in the silence of the middle of the field under the stars. We warmed ourselves by the fire for a while until the wind died down. With the wind chill gone, clean up was slightly less daunting: we handed out the headlamps and began collecting wine glasses from the long vacant table.

Outstanding Dinner Site History

Below is a map marking every site that Outstanding in the Field has set its table. Since 1999, we have presented 73 dinners from Alaska to Nantucket Island to San Diego and many places in between. Click on each point on the map to view links to the dinners' participants. To view a bigger version, follow the Outstanding Dinner Site History Map link to the left.



View Larger Map

Dining with the Stars

We have been excited about this dinner for months. Jim drove down to L.A. at the end of July to scout out the site and returned to Santa Cruz very enthusiastic. As was discussed in our NYC entry, there is a uniqueness about community garden dinners and Wattles Farm has a lot to share.

Toby Leaman, president of the board of directors and longtime member of the garden, has been our Wattles liason and met us to unlock the gates the morning of the dinner. She is a very sweet lady with tons of passion towards the garden, its history and its hundreds of members.
What is now Wattles Farm was once an avocado grove/fruit orchard for the nearby Wattles Mansion. In 1975 it became Wattles Farm, to begin growing into what it is today, making it one of L.A.’s oldest community gardens. It is 4.2 acres in size, and right off Hollywood Blvd tucked away on Curson Ave, less than 1 mile from the Walk of Fame.

Spacial organization of the dinner is a bit more of a challenge in these community gardens, more so than a 4.2 acre field of course. After some contemplation, Jim opted for a V table, running it off along two walking paths, lined by fruit trees and garden plots.



Unexpectedly, a few guests arrived early and Toby ushered them on a private tour around the garden sharing her stories and knowledge of the plants and trees.
Allen Quinton & his wife of Antelope Valley Winery set up under the trees to pour their Muscat Canelli to the arriving guests. We are excited to finally work with Antelope Valley Winery owned by Cecil McLester. Cecil's son Andrew is a good friend of Jim’s and is the wine consultant for Outstanding in the Field. A few members of the garden were also there at the welcome area to tour small groups of guests through the rows of avocado trees and garden plots bursting with herbs, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuces, chard, beans and berries.

A number of garden members were present to lead small groups of guests around the garden. Some gardener guides were more elaborate with their tours than others, but eventually everyone arrived back at the greeting area for Jim and Katy’s welcome. Plates in hand, the guests then cozied into their seats at the table to be begin their meal with a beautiful salad of radicchio, burrata, figs and mineolas from the garden kitchen of Kris Morningstar and Blue Velvet Restaurant. See Kris’ full menu here.



Guests enjoyed the dinner at a leisurely pace. Kris’ uni chowder was delicious, the uni (sea urchin roe) being a new experience for many of the diners. The platter receiving the greatest reaction at the table was the yellow wax peppers stuffed with lamb’s tongue served over shelling bean salad. The dish was paired with Antelope Valley's 2005 Tempranillo; Antelope Valley's first bottling of the Tempranillo grape. Dessert was a zucchini bread with zucchini mousse– one friend of Outstanding in the Field mentioned afterwards that it was the best thing she had ever eaten, ever.

The evening was topped off by a brilliant sighting of a shooting star. Jim was addressing the table when he suddenly noticed many of the guests pointing up into the sky behind him with their mouths hanging open. Of course by the time he had spun around, the spectacle was over. Very memorable for the guests.